Aubrey
Welsh
Belle River, Ontario, Canada
This is where my niece, Kelly, and her family live. A small town, close to the US border with Detroit, where quality of life is paramount and where a young family can put down some roots. They've been here for some five years and have no regrets about their decision to relocate. Of course, they miss family and friends back in South Africa but, hopefully, many will visit in the coming years. Thank you very much for hosting me.
Final Durham University EAP Pre-Sessional
My final teaching session at Durham University in the UK has now come to an end. I taught the first programme in 2018 and have completed 5 sessions, two online and three face-to-face. I have loved every moment of this experience and it has been the perfect finale to my teaching career. Thank you, Durham!
Super Blue Moon
31 August 2023, Durham, UK
Click here to link to website
Grand
Southern Continental
Tour - 2023
In May and June 2023, I travelled by train through the southern regions of Europe, visiting special friends and stopping off at some 'new' destinations in what is likely to be my final travel experience through this region. The final leg (in black) is a ferry trip from Bari, Italy to the island of Ithaca, Greece to join Johnny and Elvina Catscarlis.
Switzerland
I decided to break my train journey from Lyon to Zurich by stopping in Geneva for a few hours. What a beautiful city. And so many languages!
The buildings and architecture are quite unique and kept in immaculate condition. I suppose this could be expected as one of the United Nations Centres, CERN and the Geneva Convention.
The city of blackened-windowed stealth vehicles - each no doubt conveying VIPs around the city. I peered in but no luck!
I don't think it's my fault but in just about every major city I have visited, there has been a Gay Pride Parade. Geneva was no exception.
The police were out in force but were incredibly friendly. I made a new friend of this chap who was very happy to chat with me all about the Parade.
This concert pianist probably had nothing to with Gay Pride but there he was, tinkling the keys along Lake Geneva. I stopped to listen for about 15 mins.
Zurich
My gracious hosts in Zurich were Roli and Russel, a very happily married couple. I've known Russel since the 80s in Johannesburg.
I was enthralled by Zurich and it was my very first visit to the city. Like Geneva, it was clean and litter free and the buildings were exquisite.
Also, like Geneva, there are always special characters to be found in the streets and lanes around the city. I love sitting in a cafe and people-watching; and by golly, have I seen some people!
Around Zurich
I was fascinated to discover this Jesuit Church in the centre of Lucerne. A really beautiful building with amazing decor inside.
One of our day trips was to Rheinfall - Europe's widest waterfall. Although not high, the volume of water pouring over it was nothing short of spectacular.
One of the great pleasures of travel is meeting people. Roli and his sister, Anita are of Spanish (Colombian) background and they are loud, lively and loquacious! Beautiful people.
I noticed that all the rivers in Switzerland have beautifully clear (and cold) waters which were fast-flowing - the result of alpine run-off
Across Europe - bicycles rule! And if you're not careful, you can get run over by one. Now with eBikes, etc. dangers are always present!
Life is serious enough - so when there's an opportunity for a little levity, one must always grab it. Not the most comfortable but at least I didn't fall off!
During this GSCT, I have embarked on a wide range of travel - in this case, a funicular to reach the top of the hill behind the University of Zurich
Scenes like this abound in Switzerland. Every village/town has at least one central church (many villages have many more) - pretty, pretty, pretty
I have been sooooo impressed by the ease of train travel across Europe. Clear billboards and punctuality seem to be the order of the day. But give enough time to get to your platform, they're often miles away!
Venice
Iconic Venice was no disappointment at all! I am so glad I stopped off here for two days! I walked over 30,000 steps each day for the two days I was there.
If you arrive at the Peggy Guggenheim private collection at her previous home from the Grand Canal, you are greeted by this sculpture. My visit to this oasis in the bustling city was serene.
St Mark's Square - a must visit (I went twice!). I know that it is a tourist spot but it is well worth it - the queues for the Doge's Palace were so long that I just walked away.
I had to change trains at Milan on my way to Venice and I couldn't resist a quick selfie in the plaza outside the station. I can now say I've been to Milan!
I loved the idea of travelling over the water as the train approached Venice St Lucia Station. You understand the flat island nature of the region.
I'm convinced that there are more churches in Venice than in the Vatican City! And so beautifully maintained, it is absolutely enthralling.
The City of Masks and the Venetian Balls. There are still many shops which sell these home made crafts and I was tempted - but maintained discipline.
There are so many valuable paintings in the Peggy Guggenheim Collection but I loved these glass figurines made by an artist who modelled them on Peggy's daughter's paintings
And a little bit of naughtiness - the 'Bra Bar' (real name Bocaro) - a great little pub know for its loud rock and roll music. Notice the ceiling.
Bari
My train journey from Venice to Bari stopped off briefly in Bologna where I was staggered to find a seven level (I think) train station! I nearly missed my connection.
This beautiful fountain greets arrivals at Bari Station and really does give one a good impression of the city. There are parts of Bari, though, that are run down and covered and graffiti - even the main university buildings were 'desecrated'
The main reason for being in Bari was to catch the ferry to Greece but it was also to meet up with Jane as she was going to a choral retreat in a place called Monopoli - just south of Bari.
I found this entrance to one of the University of Bari buildings quite imposing (and it had no graffiti)
Brutalist architecture makes for an interesting contrast but at least the apartments have large covered balconies
I loved this tiled floor in my accommodation. And then I realised that it was made from a single tile design - very clever.
Monopoli
Monopoli was not supposed to be part of my GSCT but it turned out to be one the unexpected highlights! If you ever travel to the heel of Italy, add it to your itinerary.
The old city is incredibly quaint and has been loving restored to a former glory with a modern twist.
I just love the view through the walls of the old seaside fortress. It is not a large village but there is beauty in every angle, every corner and every nook.
A Puglia speciality is this ear-shaped pasta I saw being prepared in one of the small side streets in Monopoli. In the Italian flag colours
For the second time in my GSCT, I was thrilled to find a healthy and flowering Pohutukawa tree in Monopoli (the first one was in Porto)
Whilst visiting the Basilica of St Nicolau (yes, Santa Claus - long story) I happened upon a wedding. I and about 200 non-invitees joined in the celebration
Ithaki, Greece
Just in case you're not sure where Ithaki is, here's a map. It's a small island just next to a larger island called Kefalonia, both part of the Ionian Islands in the western Greece islands.
And this is yet another beautiful view from the home of Elvina and Johnny in Stavros, Ithaki. Johnny and I spent hours in the garden, finishing a rockery and generally tidying up.
At night, the outside light attracted hundreds of moths creating a beautiful artistic (and moving) pattern on the walls.
Around Ithaki
Kioni - one of the small villages at the end of the road. Beautiful houses, lovely seafront and, of course, a church
Flowers abound all across the islands, especially Bougainvilleas (not pictured) making the environment greatly attractive.
Eating is not just for survival but for the company. I enjoyed countless meals, with so many different people that I could not show them all. Thanks to all - everywhere.
If you live or are travelling through the Greek Isles, you must become proficient at booking and using the many different ferries - for both pedestrians and vehicles
An aerial view of Vathi (largest town on Ithaki) taken from an old monastery at the top of an enormous hill - great, isn't it?
I have a thousand pictures of my Greek hosts - Johnny and Elvina - but I love this one very much! Taken in a very bohemian restaurant up in the hills of Anogi run by a most iconic couple
How would like to live in a village that has this beautiful church? Well, this is Stavros where I am spending ten days
An odd local practice is for people to feed a large group of (somewhat) feral cats. Wherever you go, cats come running just in case you have food. Some are terribly friendly and will come right up and brush against your leg.
This house on the sea front at a villages called Frikes is up for sale. I think before I leave Greece, I might put in an offer. Yes, I know - it needs a little tender loving care (and about 500,000 Euros!)
Porto, Portugal
River Douro in the city of Porto with Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar at the top of the left bank.
I was completely blown away to find a flowering Pohutukawa tree right in the middle of the old city
Porto is named after the famous port wines which are grown in the Douro Valley. Had to taste them whilst listening to Fado.
The main purpose of the Porto visit was to catch up with Bruno Martins, a friend from many years ago in Johannesburg
This is the original Eiffel Bridge over the river (for rail).
Church of Saint Ildefonso. This is one of many blue-tiled churches in Porto.
Coimbra-Alvorge; Portugal
University of Coimbra - some 800 years old it is steeped in Portuguese history
It was Graduation week and I got closer to one of them who was kind enough to indulge a tourist
And there was a wedding happening in the narrow streets between the university and the old town
My host in Alvorge (south of Coimbra) was the delightful Michelle Amado - thank you so much!
A little bit of historical antiquity and still in perfect working order today
The village of Alvorge hosts one of the great walks of life. In fact, two 'paths' pass through it.
Nazaré, Portugal
For most of my life, I believed that this 'big wave' town was in the Algarve - wrong!
The town is actually on the mid-Atlantic coast of Portugal, south west of Coimbra
On the day we visited, teams were practising for the Euro 2023 Beach Handball Championships - Hungary won Mens' and Germany the Womens'
This is the path down to the lighthouse where people watch the surfers - none today as the waves only occur during the winter months
Thanks to Michelle for my unexpected visit to Nazaré (Nazareth in English) -before rushing off to teach one of classes
Another surprise. After teaching, Michelle took me back to Nazaré for the sunset - absolutely spectacular
Barão de São João; Algarve, Portugal
My arrival into Lagos was on this 'train' - it was more like an 'old car' struggling through its gears but on the slight downhills is 'shuttled'!
My hosts in BDSJ were Suzanne, Russell and their son Roman - here is Rosie taking Suzanne and me for a walk
I just love that everywhere you find floral gems that are so well cared for
There are hundreds of marinas across the Algarve mostly used by foreign migrants and visitors
Houses in the village of BDSJ are colourfully decorated and the streets are clean
I loved the logo for this supermarket in Luz - don't you, Penny?
Malaga, Spain
As there is no train from southern Portugal to Spain, I chose to travel this leg by bus with Alsa. A good choice; clean, spacious and efficient.
We passed through the quaint city of Huelva and I was able to take this quick pic of a beautiful fountain in one of the round-a-bouts.
In Seville, I had to change buses in a pretty chaotic bus station (almost missed my connection) but loved this new Alomillo Bridge across the
Guadalquivir River - the only navigable river in Spain.
My bus destination was Malaga where I spent several months at the end of 2021. It's a great city and well worth a visit.
For the first time in my life (and probably the last) I stayed in capsule accommodation - the FuturoHotel. It was quite an experience and not as claustrophobic as I thought it would be, But one only sleeps there!
I spent some of my 'non-sleeping' time in the well-appointed kitchen, dining and entertainment areas of the hotel - great wifi in all parts of the venue.
My main decision to include Malaga on my GSCT was to catch up with my previous landlady, Rocio Luiz. in typical Spanish fashion, she insisted on taking me to dinner...
... at a wonderful type of beach restaurant which are called 'chiringuitos'. In this kitchen all the seafood is barbequed. Sadly, I could only try the sardines and halibut fish. But a great evening overall.
There was a country-wide mayoral election on while I was there and I bumped into this candidate (facing camera) whilst I wondered the Malaga streets. Not sure if he got in or not.
Sitges & Barcelona, Spain
One of the most marvellous things about train travel in Spain is the high speed ones between the major cities. Here I am on the Malaga-Madrid-Barcelona leg; almost 1,000km and done in about four hours (with stops). Top speed over 300km/h.
For my Catalunya stay, I opted for accommodation in Sitges, a sentimental spot of mine. Besides, it was much more affordable than central Barcelona! The beaches are incredible.
My accommodation was fabulous. A little unit with en-suite in a privately-owned building of six apartments. I really do much prefer this to hotels.
I love surprising people and I surprised Ronnie and Bruce in Barcelona by pretending to arrange an 'agent' to take them to dinner - the agent was, of course, me! I also forced them out of their usual comfort zone by taking a return train (gasp!) from Barcelona to Sitges
I also treated them to tickets to the Opera at Liceu - they saw Wagner's Parsifal - a long but very moving performance.
I also had a lovely lunch with Paula Keaveney ( the sister of an ex-colleague in Brisbane - Loretta Smith).
My final task in Sitges was to scatter some of Mom's ashes in the ocean. She had visited Spain some decades before and loved the country. It was only fitting to leave a little part of her here.
Senouillac, France
I was a little worried when my host, Janet, said that travellers to Senouillac would be 'thrown off' the train at Narbonne. It turned out to be true.
But arriving at Janet and Michael's house was nothing short of spectacular - what a beautiful home. Janet's daughter-in-law, May, posing at entrance.
Their garden, though small, is just like 'a secret garden' - so many flowers, vegetables, insects and birds. And, of course, the BBQ. No less than 9 places to sit and enjoy the space.
Senouillac Village (Michael and Janet shown) like most villages is centred around the church and several hundred people live in the village - with another 1500 on the surrounding farms
Janet suggested that I buy this house in the village. I can tell you that I was very, very tempted! Now it's simply a matter of finding the cash - now under which mattress did I hide it?
Who wouldn't want to live surrounded by this?
Senouillac is in Midi, a cultural region encompassing the southern French regions of Aquitaine, Languedoc, and Provence.
This magnificent, and ancient, Cathedral Basilica of Saint Cecilia is in Albi - very close to Senouillac. Begun in 1282, it is claimed to be the largest brick building in the world. Attached to it is the Bishop's Palace with buildings UNESCO Heritage sites.
The Interior and ceiling on the cathedral is incredibly beautiful - the colours are astonishing (don't come through in pics). We also visited the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum which is housed in the BIshop's Palace.
But Albi also has a bustling hospitality and retail sector in the rambling lanes and alleyways. Here are Michael and May (in white) and their son, Sam (in black t-shirt).