Aubrey
Welsh
Homage to Ithaki (Ithaca)
On 19 June, 2023, I boarded this Superfast ferry bound first for Igoumenitsa (on the Greece mainland) and then onto Patras where I was due to overnight before catching another ferry to Ithaca. I could not believe how many trucks were loaded onto the ferry, some even carried livestock (cattle, I think). Arriving at Igoumenitsa was a further marvel at how quickly the ferry 'disgorged' the vessels and we sped off for Patras. So calm and smooth was the sail that we arrived an hour early - which meant I could catch the 1pm ferry bound for Ithaca and thus surprise my hosts, Johnny and Elvina.
Pisaetos Port is tiny but serves the island of Ithaki with great efficiency. About half a dozen large ferries (and several other smaller ones) arrive and depart every day linking to a number of other Greek island ports. Through serendipity, my hosts were also on my ferry and were shocked to see me arrive a whole day earlier. We piled into their rented car and headed off for Stavros, the village in which they have an ancestral home. What a beautiful home. Over the years, they have made some renovations and it now accommodates 7 or 8 people comfortably.
The spiritual heart of the village of Stavros is the Holy Temple of the Transfiguration of the Saviour - a Greek Orthodox church. It stands proudly at the junction of several roads leading through the village. Also in the village are a number of cafes, a bakery, a butcher, and 2 or 3 grocery/fresh produce outlets. With less than 400 ordinary residents it is a quiet, unspoilt place and I spent two wonderful weeks exploring the area - famous because it is the historical home of Odysseus, King of Ithaca - the great figure of the Homeric poem, the Odyssey.
Vathy (at left) has been the capital of Ithaca since Venetian rule about 400 years ago and lies in the south of Ithaca. The island is less than 30km long and averages between 1 and 7km wide. I took this photo from the Kathara Monastery which lies high on a hill across the Molos Bay. During British rule in 19th C the population of Vathy rose to as much 5,000 people but has since dropped to less than 2,000 today.
As you can see from the map, Ithaki is a much smaller island than Kefalonia but I believe this is what makes it so very special.
While we were in Vathy, I needed to pop into a pharmacy for some medication. I was both shocked and amused to see how the shelves were packed. How on earth is one supposed to find what one needs? Best to simply ask at the counter, it seems.
Another adaptation we needed to make was that there was no Internet connection at home. So Freddi and I used to pop down to Margarita Cafe in Stavros, order coffee, pastries or other food, and sit there catching up with the world. We became quite well known in the village - luckily Freddi can speak Greek!
Elvina has many relatives on Ithaca (it's where her Raftopolous surname originated) and so we met some of them at a lovely dinner in another seaside village called Frikes. Although this was 'early' in the summer season, the village was packed - we were lucky to get such a large table. All in all, a fantastic evening!
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To give you a sense of what Frikes Village is like, this video was shot on a less than sunny day. I took it because the house at the start was on sale and I wondered if I should take all my money out the bank and buy it.
What do you think?
Greece is famous for its beaches and Ithaca is no exception. This is Filiatro Beach in the southern part of island and has a huge restaurant facing onto the beach. We hadn't brought our swimming togs with us (as this was an unplanned visit) so all we could do was have a walk around and follow that with with lunch. Delicious.
The beach closest to Stavros is Polis Beach and you can see in the photo how absolutely clear the water is. We swam here many times and it took me a little while to get used to the slightly 'cooler than I would have liked' temperature of the water.
Wild flowers abound on Ithaca and I was amazed as to how they grow simply everywhere. These beauties were clinging to cracks in the concrete wall in front of a house and I marvelled at their exquisiteness. I have no idea what these are called.
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I am not a great fan of the oleander plant but these, too, blossom profusely across the island. This one is in front of the "Everything Shop" in Stavros. We had to go in (as every tourist must) to have a look and I must say I was overwhelmed at the range of stock - it had everything.
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History is everywhere on Ithaca (as you might well imagine) and I was astounded to stumble on this ancient grinding machine. Johnny and I were driving along and he insisted we stop and take picture. I tried moving the wheels but simply could not - how did those donkeys do it?
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Just a little further up were the ancient water wells (now enhanced with lovely Victorian taps) and this plaque caught my eye. Not only is the message brilliant but see the name Raftopolous beneath - Elvina's family name. I told you they 'owned' the island.
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I mentioned the Kathara Monastery earlier and this is the main facade. Of course it is no longer a working facility and sadly, on the day we visited it was closed so I took this picture through the gate.In 1993 the Ithacan monk Theodosios Vlismas settled in the monastery and to this day labours to continue its restoration.
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Adjacent to the monastery is a tiny chapel and tower and John, Elvina, Freddi, Johnny and I had fun exploring and taking those pictures of Vathy in the distance.
A relative of Elvina's, Georgina, lives in the village of Kioni and I took this photo from the balcony of her lovely home. She invited us for dinner and prepared a splendid meal. Needless to say, we all partook of the grape and later in the evening wondered down into the village to attempt to walk off our insobriety. I love the fact that all over Ithaca were these small villages where it seemed to me that 'real' people lived. Even if the property owners live elsewhere across the globe e.g. Johnny and Elvina in Durban, Georgina (on my left) in Newcastle, Australia. But everyone travels and spends a few months in their ancestral homes. Freddi (on my right) looking very content. Lovely.
But we're not done with eating just yet. This is the very famous Myrtia Restaurant which is just a little way up the hill from where Johnny and Elvina's house is sited. The name 'myrtia' comes from the myrtle plant and the owners use it to produce a beautiful sauce which is one of their signature dishes.
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Before dinner, we wandered in their vegetable and herb garden below the restaurant - what an amazing collection of all sorts of weird and wonderful plants and fruits. Johnny and I hope to re-create this in their own home.
How are these tomatoes which we came across in the Myrtia garden? I have to add that they grow almost all the vegetables which are served in the restaurant. The owners Nick (from Durban) and Poppy (from Australia) are extremely proud of their venture and are hands-on everywhere.
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And these white flowers are those of the myrtle bush which grows all over the island. Poppy is something of bio-nutritionist and has taken the flowers to create a beautiful myrtle sauce which she gave us a sample of to try. It was absolutely delicious! If you ever visit Ithaca, you must dine at Myrtia!
One of my greatest pleasures whilst staying on Ithaca was to listen to the bells of the sheep and goats returning to their overnight shelter after having grazed all day the slopes of the hills. I would stop whatever I was doing just to sit and listen to them pass by. Sometimes they grazed in the empty plot next to our house on their way home.
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And here are some of them having a feed next door. They were unfazed by my appearance behind my camera and just carried on - grazing their way home.
But all too soon my sojourn on Ithaca had to come to an end. Thanks to Johnny and Elvina for inviting me to join them and to Freddi for also coming along for the ride. My thanks also go to all the people I met during my stay: John, Georgina, Elvina's family - too many to name - and all the visitors we came across whilst there. It was a very special trip and one which I will always treasure.
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Whilst we all kept brave faces, it was very sad to say goodbye. My face tells it all but I am so grateful to have friends like Johnny and Elvina. May they have a long and rewarding life.
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